I first saw this strategy over ten years ago in The Motley Fool’s Money Guide (published 2001) and they called it the Fax-a-thon method. The same idea as the above except you do it by fax, never talking to anyone and doing nothing more than faxing a few requests. You will need a way to receive faxes with their method (it relies on not including your phone number so you don’t get bothered), but you can always send free faxes using online tools. I next saw it in this video about how to buy a car using this same idea, except over the phone rather than over fax:

Have you tried this with any success?

(Photo: aldenjewell)

How to Buy A Car from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

What took its place was a new tax credit on electric vehicles created by the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009. Electric vehicles purchased in or after 2010 is eligible for up to $7500 in tax credits.

Here’s what the two associated sections say:

Plug-in Electric Drive Vehicle Credit (Section 1141): The new law modifies the credit for qualified plug-in electric drive vehicles purchased after Dec. 31, 2009. To qualify, vehicles must be newly purchased, have four or more wheels, have a gross vehicle weight rating of less than 14,000 pounds, and draw propulsion using a battery with at least four kilowatt hours that can be recharged from an external source of electricity. The minimum amount of the credit for qualified plug-in electric drive vehicles is $2,500 and the credit tops out at $7,500, depending on the battery capacity. The full amount of the credit will be reduced with respect to a manufacturer’s vehicles after the manufacturer has sold at least 200,000 vehicles.

Plug-In Electric Vehicle Credit (Section 1142): The new law also creates a special tax credit for two types of plug-in vehicles — certain low-speed electric vehicles and two- or three-wheeled vehicles. The amount of the credit is 10 percent of the cost of the vehicle, up to a maximum credit of $2,500 for purchases made after Feb. 17, 2009, and before Jan. 1, 2012. To qualify, a vehicle must be either a low speed vehicle propelled by an electric motor that draws electricity from a battery with a capacity of 4 kilowatt hours or more or be a two- or three-wheeled vehicle propelled by an electric motor that draws electricity from a battery with the capacity of 2.5 kilowatt hours. A taxpayer may not claim this credit if the plug-in electric drive vehicle credit is allowable.

Depending on the size of the battery capacity, your credit is anywhere from $2,500 to $7,500. According to the current list at FuelEconomy.gov, all eligible vehicles are still eligible for 100% of the credit. No manufacturer has sold at least 200,000 vehicles.

Here are the eligible vehicles:

• 2010 CODA Sedan (CODA Automotive)
• 2010 E36 78 Passenger Wagon
• 2010 E36t Pick-up Truck
• 2010 E36v Utility Van
• 2011-2012 Transit Connect EV (Ford/Azure Dynamics)
• 2012 i-MiEV (Mitsubishi)
• 2011 Leaf (Nissan)
• 2011 fortwo electric vehicle (smart USA)
• 2008-11 Roadster (Tesla)
• 2011 Think City EV (Think)
• 2011 LiFe (Wheego)

I haven’t even heard of half the manufacturers on that list (CODA? Think? Wheego?) so it’s no surprise they haven’t sold 200,000 (that’s a lot of vehicles… the hybrid credit started its phase out at just 60,000 cars.

(Photo: jurvetson)

2012 Hybrid & Electric Car Tax Credit Update from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

Warming up your car refers to turning on the engine and letting it run idle to “warm” it up. The idea with letting it warm up is that it’s like you stretching. You let the engine idle a little before making it do any real work. It sounds great in theory but it’s completely unnecessary. Your car doesn’t need this and you’re just wasting fuel.

There’s another type of “warming up your car” that people refer to and that has to do with the inside of your car. Sometimes you like to let the engine run so it can get hot and begin delivering hot air into the cabin. Again, that sounds great except it’s costing you money. Much like how your mom probably told you to put on a sweater when you were cold, rather than turn up the thermostat, it’s better for you to avoid this when possible. (Also, the engine gets warmer when you’re driving… so just get going)

If you live in a place where ice can develop, some of these rules go out the window because you need heat to melt the ice before you can safely proceed. If you live in one of those areas, you probably already know this. If you don’t live in an area like this, quit idling your car and throwing money out the window.

(Photo: spakattacks)

Money Leaks: Warming Up Your Car from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

However, as the 2001 Saturn ages, we are again turning our thoughts to car shopping. We’ll probably hold off for a little while longer, since the car has remained reliable and is decent condition, thanks to the magic of proper car maintenance. As we think more about what’s next, though, it seems apparent that we will soon have to decide between a new car and a used car.

Buying a New Car

Of course, when you buy a new car everyone points out that it depreciates as soon as you drive it off the lot. Plus, you have to pay more up front for a new car. However, the advantage of a new car is that it is new and under manufacturer’s warranty. You don’t have to worry about it breaking down as much, and you can have many things fixed under warranty. If you have a sizable down payment, you can reduce your borrowing costs. However, your auto insurance costs might be higher on a new car. However, the resale value is likely to be higher (even with the immediate depreciation), since you will have a new car, and be the only owner.

While many people recommend that you avoid getting a new car, for some people, it works well. If you are worried about breakdowns, and gas mileage, a new car can be useful in that area. And you are likely to go longer without needing to do more than have regular maintenance performed with a new car. If time is an issue, and you don’t want the car in a repair shop, it might be worth it to get a new car — especially if you have a good down payment saved up.

Buying a Used Car

On the other hand, many find that a used car is the way to go. You will pay less up front, and you may not even have to borrow. Many people can save up enough for some kind of a used car over the course of a few months. As long as the car gets you from point A to point B, a used car can be a great choice — especially if you strapped for cash. You can get a 0 down car loan on a used loan, and still have a shorter term and pay less than interest than you would with a down payment on some new cars.

If you want a used car, one way to get the best value for your money is to consider a lease return. These cars aren’t as expensive as new cars, and they cost more than many used cars, but they make a nice compromise. Lease returns have often been cared for to certain specifications, and they are new enough to be reliable. Both of our cars are lease returns, and they have worked well. We are likely to get a year-old lease return next time we decide to buy.

If you are interested in deciding what’s best for you, Bankrate.com offers a great auto calculator that can help you weigh your options.

What about you? Do you prefer to buy new or used cars? Why?

(Photo: Eleventh Earl of Mark)

Buying a Car: New or Used? from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

Why? Because the monthly payment for your car lease is calculated with the assumption that you’re going to hold the lease through the end of the term. If you don’t, the leasing company loses a lot of money in part, because they have to recoup the cost they incur for the depreciation of the car. The earlier you terminate your lease, the less money they recoup.  Although you’re probably going to have to pay something to get out of your lease, there are ways to greatly minimize the payment.

Pay It Off

This is the least attractive option. Not only are they going to charge you for all or a portion of the remaining payments but they will tack on an early termination fee, mileage overage fees, and other fees. This is so they can avoid losses but also to discourage you from terminating the contract early. In most cases attempting to terminate your lease isn’t going to save you a lot of money. The payoff amount is too high and if you have to pay for it anyway, you might as well drive it.

Trade In

As you get closer to the end of your lease, car dealerships will be more willing to work with you if you are planning to lease or purchase another vehicle from them. In some cases, for very little out of pocket, you can trade in your currently leased vehicle early and buy or lease a new model. Make sure the car is clean, has no damage, and all current payments are made. Again, this isn’t going to be the best deal for you but it is easy to complete.

Transfer the Lease

Not all leasing companies allow this but if your company does, you can transfer your remaining lease to somebody else for the balance of the term. This relieves you of all further responsibility and doesn’t cause damage to your credit score. It may not be as hard to find a person willing to take over your lease as you think. There are online services like swapalease.com that will not only match you to somebody willing to take your lease but they will also work with your leasing company to facilitate the paperwork involved. They do all of this for a fee that is still much less than paying off the lease. Do not find somebody on your own and allow them to take over payments but keep your name on the lease. This is a violation of your lease agreement.

You should never sign a lease if you believe that you won’t be able to fulfill the entire contract. Regardless of the method you would use to terminate your lease early, it’s going to cost you and sometimes the cost is substantial.

(Photo: brunociampi)

How to End Your Lease Early from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

Is premium gasoline better? “Yes.” Yes is in quotes because it’s better at handling compression. The higher octane means it can be compressed more before exploding. Cars that require premium gasoline will compress the gasoline to much higher PSI before igniting it. If you put regular unleaded into a premium gasoline engine, it’ll misfire. The fuel will ignite before the engine is ready and that’s the reason you’ll hear “knocking.”

If you want to treat your car better, avoid driving like a maniac, which increases wear and tear (and carpool!).

(Photo: robbn1)

Money Leaks: Buying Premium Gasoline from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

One thing we have done, though this predates our appreciation of NPR by several years, is donate a used car to a charity. About seven years ago, my wife’s car died (blown head gasket) and it didn’t make financial sense to repair it. We were looking around at our options and decided that donating it to a local school was the best option for us (I mentioned the car in passing in my post on why you should donate your car).

So how do you donate your car? It’s a simple three step process.

Identify the Charity

Charities that accept vehicle donations will often have plenty of information how the process works. For example, here is WAMU’s vehicle donation FAQ which answers almost every question you could possibly have. If the charity you wish to support doesn’t have as comprehensive a FAQ as this one, use these questions as a guide and ask them.

Here are the crucial answers you need:

• Will you accept my car? Some charities will only accept cars in working condition, those that pass inspection, etc. When you call, chances are they will go over all this with you anyway so you won’t need to ask. They aren’t going to send a person out to pick it up if they aren’t going to accept the car when it arrives.
• What paperwork will they need? Usually, just a free and clear title (no leins).
• When will a receipt be issued? You’ll want one when they take the car so you have proof that someone took it in the first place. Next, you should get a letter that includes an IRS Form 1098-C (Contributions of Motor Vehicles, Boats, and Airplanes) that lists your deduction amount.
• How will the car’s value be determined? The charity will probably sell your car and the amount they get is what is listed on the Form 1098-C. In the event they keep it for their own use, then the blue book value may be used.

When you do select a charity, make sure the donation is going directly to them, not through a third party that might take a commission. Also confirm that the Charity is an IRS registered 501(c)3 nonprofit organization.

Making the Donation

This is the easiest part since the charity handles most of the work for you. Once you’re ready, give them a call and schedule a time for them to pick up the vehicle. Make sure you have a signed clear title to give to the person making the pick up, you remember to give them all the keys, and clean everything out of the car. The last thing you want to do is leave your EZ Pass in the dash.

Claiming the Deduction

This final step is straightforward as well. To get a tax deduction, you will need to itemize your deductions (you can’t claim the standard deduction) and simply claim the donation. Your proof will be the receipt and IRS form that the charity will send you once they decide what they will do with the car. See how easy that is?

Donating a car is remarkably easy and even easier now that the onus is on the charity to provide the documentation. In year’s past you would have to get appraisals and make all sorts of claims that the IRS could dispute. Now, it’s a simple form and you’re done. You might have to claim less for your car, which is why the IRS went in this direction, but this takes the uncertainty out of the process.

Have you ever donated a car? Is it this simple? Or are there hidden gotchas I missed?

(Photo: orinrobertjohn)

How to Donate a Car from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

Editor’s Note/Warning: As frugal as I am, I think you should always try to repair problems as quickly as possible, as small problems have ways of turning into big problems. Proper maintenance and repair will help your car live longer than average, which yields savings in the long run. I do, also, recognize that in these tougher economic times, you may not have the funds to make these minor repairs. If that’s the case, this post hopes to give a little direction on what issues where it might be OK to delay.

Low Tire Warning

Most modern cars have sensors that will warn you if problems pop up on your vehicle. One of the most frequent warning indicators is the low tire pressure warning.  My car doesn’t have one but my husband’s Prius does.  Some people mistakenly believe that this light means that the tire needs to be replaced. The solution is often much simpler than that. Many times the air pressure in the tire has simply dropped below the manufacturer’s recommended limit. Adding some air to the tire will often make this warning light shut off.

Broken Thermostat

If the thermostat breaks in a car, the indicator will show that engine is not getting warm enough. If you know that your engine is running fine with no major issues with heating and cooling, then you may just have a broken thermostat. Getting the thermostat display fixed is important in the long run, but if you are having a tough month financially, it is one of the repairs that can wait a bit. Just make sure to check your engine regularly for any signs of problems.

My thermostat broke a couple of years ago, but I had it replaced immediately since I had no idea what its significance was. My mechanic actually explained to me that I would have been fine without one for a while since the engine was in good shape. Even though I still prefer to have things fixed immediately, I thought I should mention it.

Check Engine Light

Another indicator light that pops on all the time is the Check Engine Light. Some cars even keep track of how tight the gas cap is on, how much fuel is in the car, and how often you need an oil change with that light. In short, your car’s display may be showing problems with the engine because of a loose gas cap or because it’s been 3000 miles since your last oil change. I would suggest checking your owner’s manual for simple causes for the check engine light and only take your car in to be looked at after making sure there isn’t a simple, and cheaper, fix.

Small Brake Fluid Leak

Believe me, I thought there was no way that a brake fluid leak should be ignored. Then I owned an Aveo. Apparently, small brake fluid leaks do sometimes occur on badly made vehicles with manual transmissions. My brake light came on and stayed on a few years ago, but when I took it to my mechanic, he spent 2 hours trying to find the leak to no avail.

He finally simply added a little brake fluid into the proper reservoir and explained I probably had a small leak somewhere around the clutch. He suggested I simply add a little bit of brake fluid myself whenever the light stayed on and to look into it further if the light ever came on more frequently than every 6 months. So far, it has been 4 years since the initial light and I’ve only had to add about an inch of brake fluid 5 times. That means I have spent $8 on brake fluid instead of thousands of dollars on finding the insignificant leak.

Have you learned to ignore certain car problems too?

(Photo: kathycat102)

Car Problems You May Be Able To Ignore from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

Carpooling

Carpooling has become fashionable again. More people are finding that it makes financial sense to ride to common destinations together. Carpooling can also help you get to your destination faster since you can use the carpool lane in major cities. You can pretty easily put together a carpool for work, school, and church. You can either alternate drivers or everyone can chip in some cash to the main driver on a regular basis. In the end, carpooling saves money gas as well as tolls and parking. I have found that sites like Nuride.com make it easy to find fellow carpoolers to similar destinations.

Biking

Nice Spring and Fall days are a great time to bike. Bike rides are not only great for cardiovascular activity but can get you all around town. If you live close, you may be able to bike ride to and from work while avoiding stop-and-go traffic as well. More people are biking now since it is environmentally friendly and efficient. Biking is great for small errand runs too. I personally did not bike to work since I would have had to deal with major highways, so please be sure to take your own safety into account before biking away.

Public Transportation

Metro trains and buses can altogether replace the need for a car in major metropolitan markets with better public transportation than Houston. In cities like New York and Chicago, lots of people shun driving and opt instead for public transportation. It is a much cheaper form of travel and can save you from the headache of being stuck in traffic. In most cases, a monthly pass is a whole lot cheaper than paying for a whole month of gas. If we had public transportation in my area, I would jump on it in a heartbeat since I could save money and avoid driving to boot. I really dislike being a driver around here.

Car Rental

Over the past few years hourly car rentals have been popping up at major car rental carriers like Enterprise and Hertz. Business travelers can rent a car for an hour or two to go to a meeting, attend a lunch, or travel to their hotel. Hourly car rental companies offer cheaper rates than having to pay for a car for a whole day. There are also services like Zipcar.com that allow you to reserve and use cars only as needed.

What other ways can you think of to kill your car?

(Photo: jcolman)

How to Kill Your Car from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

Nowadays, I drive more casually. I tend to drive at slower speeds, I’m almost never in a rush, and it’s done wonders for both my fuel mileage and my general disposition. At first, it was tough. It didn’t bother me that trips took a few minutes longer (I hardly noticed), but driving felt a little longer because I wasn’t going as fast. Then I learned to enjoy what was on the radio, enjoy the sights (even if it’s just some trees whizzing by on the highway), and I felt zero anxiety about seeing police cars stopped at the side of the highway (when you’re going at the speed limit or just a few miles over it, instead of ten, you will never get pulled over for speeding). I think it has translated to better fuel efficiency but more importantly, I think I’m calmer.

Here are a few driving tips that can get you a few extra miles per gallon:

• Slow down. A 20 mile drive takes 15 minutes if you’re flying at 80 MPH, it takes 20 minutes if you’re going at 60 MPH… except you won’t ever get pulled over on the highway going 60 MPH. Are you really trying to save those five minutes or do you just prefer to drive fast? Chances are, it’s the latter (if it’s because you want to save five minutes, leave five minutes earlier). When you slow down, you save gas (less wind resistance to fight) and you lower your stress, both of which are good for you.
• Don’t accelerate or brake sharply. When you accelerate, whether it’s slowly or quickly, you use more gasoline than when you’re idling (duh!) or coasting. When you accelerate quickly, you use it much faster than if you accelerate slowly – so avoid increasing your rate of speed drastically and you’ll cut down on wasted fuel. The reason why city driving mileage is lower than highway driving mileage is because of the constant acceleration from a complete stop (such as at lights and stop signs). Braking doesn’t cost you fuel, it just costs you speed. When you brake, you need more fuel to get back to “normal” driving speed. So avoid braking by giving yourself ample distance between vehicles.
• Lighten your load. Are you carrying a lot of unnecessary stuff in your car? The heavier your car, the more fuel it takes to move it around. Some people have even resorted to removing seats to reduce the weight of the car! (I would not recommend removing your spare tire though!)
• Perform regular maintenance. As we try to save a few extra dollars, you might have considered changing your oil less frequently than the manual instructs or skipping check-ups and maintenance needs – don’t. Regular maintenance and oil changes keep your car at peak performance and lengthens its life span, both of which will save you money in the long run.
• Use the proper fuel. If your car takes regular unleaded gasoline, use regular unleaded. If it requires premium, use premium. Don’t use premium if you only need regular, don’t use regular if your car requires premium. The octane has to do with how much the fuel can be compressed before it ignites. Premium isn’t “better,” so don’t buy it unless you need it – you can read more about the high octane gas myth.

What are your best gas saving tips?

Money Leaks: Driving Like A Maniac from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

Research

The key to getting the best possible deal is doing the proper research up front.  I’d highly suggest looking into the value of the cars you are interested in, your credit score or report, and what interest rates you can get pre-approved. It sounds obvious but this up front work will help you be prepared whenever you get to the dealership, which can sometimes be an overwhelming experience.

Vehicle Value

If you go to a dealership without knowing what the car you want is actually worth, you have handed the pricing power over to the sales team.  Remember to look up the true values of every kind of car you may be looking at.  I personally use Kelley Blue Book and then search Craigslist to figure out what I’d be willing to pay.  Make sure to bring this price list with you when looking since it is very easy to forget one big number when you are surrounded by a ton of others too.

Credit

No one should be surprised by a negative credit report at a dealership.  You can use Annual Credit Report to check your overall reports and even check your Transunion credit score for free at Credit Karma.  If you know about your credit, it can’t be used as a bad surprise during negotiations.

Loan Pre-Approval

Once you know about your credit, you can go to a local credit union or bank to get pre-approved for a car loan if you will need funding.  Getting pre-approved doesn’t lock you into anything but gives you a place to negotiate from at the dealership.  Dealership usually have access to ten or more lienholders when they work deals, but they will only go out of their way to get you the absolute best deals if they know that you have other options.

The Deal Itself

Once you are in a dealership and have found the car that you want to buy, the trick from that point on is to hold firm with the salesman and the finance and insurance department.  Since you will hopefully know what the car is worth, simply make sure the deal is for that price or less.  Don’t fall for lower payments over longer terms – stick with overall sales total numbers. 

Once that is worked out, you will be handed over to the finance and insurance department to discuss loans and final details.  With the loan rates, explain what you have already been pre-approved for so that the dealership can try to beat that rate.  With the extras, make sure not to buy any extended warranties or dealer add-ons unless you researched them in advance and know you can’t get a better deal elsewhere. 

One thing to keep in mind is that absolutely everything is negotiable.  Extended warranties, interest rates, and add-ons all have a built-in profit margin that you can eat into if you explain what you are willing to pay.  If they can’t beat the rates you found elsewhere, then simply close the deal without any of the extras and buy them cheaper after the fact.

Overall, getting a fair deal on a car isn’t about luck.  Knowledge truly is power and with the internet, you have all the knowledge you need right at your fingertips.  Good luck!

What other tips can you think of for getting a great car deal from a dealership?

(Photo: dhilowitz)

Tips for Getting a Great Deal at a Car Dealership from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

You might be surprised at the number of little things you can do to improve your car’s performance so that it runs more efficiently, saving you money on gas. Indeed, there are a number of things that you can do in 55 seconds or less to help maintain your car and keep it in good working order. Here is a list of quick car maintenance things you can do to help your car run the best it can:

• Do a quick de-clutter: This took me less than 55 seconds. I went through the car and took out the trash. Grab a trash bag and gather everything up. In general, a clear car is a happier, more efficient car.
• Check the fluids and top them off: Regularly check your fluids and top them off as needed. I can check all my fluids without too much trouble, rather quickly. Add a little more fluid, and you can keep things running smoothly.
• Look for leaks: Take a few seconds to look for leaks. If you notice that some of your fluids are leaking, you can get the problem taken care of. It only takes a few seconds to look, and you can save yourself greater costs and aggravation later if you take care of issues now.
• Check your tires: Properly inflated tires can be helpful as you work on improving your fuel efficiency. You can check all four tires in less than 55 seconds. Then, it only takes another 55 seconds to add a little air to each of the tires so that they are at the optimum level. You should also look for cuts, bulges and tread depth while you’re at it.
• Check filters: If you have the know-how, you can quickly check your own filters, and possibly even change them. If you have a dirty air, oil and/or fuel filter, you should have that changed.
• Check lights: I was pulled over and warned about my brake light being out. The friendly officer didn’t ticket me, but he did enter the stop in his system. I’d be ticketed if I didn’t get the problem fixed. That may not do much in terms of my fuel efficiency, but it could sure hit my pocketbook — and a ticket might even affect my insurance rates. You can quickly check your light bulbs on brake lights, as well as your turning signal and head lamps. Then, it usually takes less than 55 seconds to change a burnt out light.

Some car maintenance activities are going to be time consuming. However, there are plenty of things you can do to keep your car clean and running better in less than a minute.

(Photo: maureen lunn)

Finances in 55 Seconds: Quick Car Maintenance from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

The bad thing is that fewer people are fairly breaking up the costs!

Personally, I’ve always felt that as a passenger in the car, I owe more than my “fair” share for gasoline. I inherently understood there were other costs involved in driving, outside of gasoline, but the main reason was because I wasn’t driving. It’s really convenient to be a passenger and so I feel like I owe more than my fair share. On some occasions, when someone else beats me to the punch in pulling out a credit card for gasoline, I’ll give them the money instead (the driver doesn’t know, which I suppose is a negative, but in the end I feel happy having paid at least my fair share). In those cases I try to split whatever they’re paying with them (if they pay more, I have zero problem paying my share of “more”).

What if you want a really fair look at costs? Well, you can go as far as to calculate the total cost of a drive, including insurance, tires, license, registration, and the works.

Back when I was driving a Acura Integra and gas was slightly cheaper, I calculated my “cost per mile” at around 7 cents. It included gasoline, insurance, tires, and a catch-all “everything” category that included windshield wipers and other routine maintenance types of things. (as an aside, knowing this information can help you make more informed decisions – like whether to drive across town to save a few cents on gas)

I personally think it all works out at the end, but if you’re a passenger, you should take the effort to make sure you aren’t taking advantage.

How do you make sure you’re a good carpool passenger?

(Photo: gennie_stafford)

Be a Good Carpool Passenger from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

Ferrari has their 599 HY-KERS, Lamborghini has the Sesto Elemento, Porsche debuted the Panamera Hybrid four-door and showed off the 918 Spyder, while Bentley displayed a flex-fuel Continental GT coupe. You also had the Rolls-Royce 102EX, a plugin-in Phantom, as well as Aston Martin’s Cygnet. The one that looked out of place was Aston Martin’s Cygnet, because it’s just the Toyota/Scion iQ bathed in all the luxuries of Aston Martin. While I love the idea of subcompact tiny smart cars, I have trouble with driving such a small vehicle in the land of 80mph trucks and SUVs. Plus, if you’re thinking about starting a family… those don’t look car-seat friendly.

I’ll take one of each.

(Photo: crystal666)

New Exotic Eco-Friendly Cars from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.

Here are the winners based on the category of vehicle:

• Minicar: Ford Fiesta
• Small Cars: Chevrolet Cruze, Honda Civic, Kia Forte sedan, Kia Soul, Mitsubishi Lancer sedan, Nissan Cube, Scion tC, Scion xB, Suburu Impreza (not WRX), Toyota Corolla, Volkswagen Golf, Wolkswagen GTI
• Midsize Cars: Audi A3, Audi A4 sedan, Chevrolet Malibu, Chrysler 200, Dodge Avenger, Ford Fusion, Hyundai Sonata, Kia Optima, Lincoln MKZ, Mercedes C class, Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Volkswagen Jetta sedan, Volkswagen Jetta SportWagen, Volvo C30
• Large Cars: Buick LaCrosse, Buick Regal, BMW 5 series, Cadillac CTS, Ford Taurus, Hyundai Genesis, Infiniti M37/M56, Lincoln MKS, Mercedes E class coupe and sedan, Toyota Avalon, Volvo S80
• Small SUV: Honda Element, Hyundai Tucson, Jeep Patriot, Kia Sportage, Subaru Forester, Volkswagen Tiguan
• Midsize SUV: Audi Q5, Cadillac SRX, Chevrolet Equinox, Dodge Journey, Ford Explorer, Ford Flex, GMC Terrain, Hyundai Santa Fe, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Kia Sorento, Lexus RX, Lincoln MKT, Mercedes GLK, Subaru Tribeca, Toyota Highlander, Toyota Venza, Volvo XC60, Volvo XC90
• Large SUV: Volkswagen Touareg
• Minivan: Toyota Sienna

As an FYI, the Institute is a private group that is funded by auto insurers.

2010 Top Safety Pick Cars from personal finance blog Bargaineering.com.