The Home 

Power-Save 1200: Recapture Your Electricity Line Loss?

Email  Print Print  

My friend received a flyer in the mail the other day from Hawkins Electric Service, Inc. about a product that could save him “up to 25% on [his] electricity bill without changing [his] lifestyle.” Apparently, all American homes poorly handle inductive loads and thus lose much of it without even using it. Inductive load is required on anything that runs on a motor and those motors require an amount of non-working reactive power to create an electromagnetic field to operate. Your electric company delivers this reactive power to your home without much knowledge of how much you’ll need and then your motor-equipped appliances draws on what it needs to operate. The excess is sent back to your box and is lost as heat, this loss is called I2R loss or line loss. The idea is that you’re paying for this I2R/line loss when you could’ve installed the Power-Save 1200 (the product that can save you up to 25%) and have it capture this power for later use.

My friend and I are both skeptical about the $300 product because neither one of us really buys the fact that we lose that much electricity in the form of line loss (I would agree that some loss occurs, but 25% of my electricity disappears as heat? I’m not sure). In a pretty exhaustive search online, I couldn’t really find much information discussing the recapture of unused load (there was a lot of other information about recapturing energy, but nothing on electricity in the home).

Phantom power drain: One interesting thing I did find was that a study by the Energy and Resources Group at UC Berkeley and the Energy Analysis Department at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory showed that in a study of ten California homes (yes, it’s a small data set, but what can you do), the total standby power used by each home ranged from 14W to 169W, the average being 67W. This corresponds to 5-26% of a home’s annual energy use. This power use is generally called phantom power drain and seems like an easier target for a savings of “up to 25%” than a $300 unit attached to your power box.

Lastly, somewhat related to this topic is the idea of energy saver systems for the induction motors themselves, because as they operate they lose a bit of the energy as heat depending on their efficiency. I discovered this extremely technical analysis on energy saver systems for induction motors that covers the marketing idea of making a particular induction motor driven item more efficient. Ultimately I believe the article is saying that they’re not worth it.

Anyone do any research on this idea of recapturing unused electrical load?

{ 179 comments, please add your thoughts now! }

Related Posts

RSS Subscribe Like this article? Get all the latest articles sent to your email for free every day. Enter your email address and click "Subscribe." Your email will only be used for this daily subscription and you can unsubscribe anytime.

179 Responses to “Power-Save 1200: Recapture Your Electricity Line Loss?”

  1. Archangel says:

    Your Watts = Volts * Amps * PF is correct, however I think you’re looking at it backwards – that equation tells you how much useful work is done with the input electricity (Volts * Amps) – a less than 1 PF means that more input energy is needed to drive the desired work load – so if I have an air conditioner needing 5KW to drive its compressor, fan, etc. and the PF of the circuit is 0.8, then I have to bring 6250VA in from the power company to feed the system. Raising the PF to .9 reduces this to 5555VA – you pay the power company for the power you bring in, not just how much you use in useful work

    • Robert says:

      If you are a residential customer, you pay the power company for watts * time, or kilowatt-hours, not VA or volt-amperes * time. In each of your calculations, Watts stayed the same at 5,000. To lower the VA is to help the power company with their PF, but will not help the residential customer’s bill except for I2R losses.
      Watts = Volts * Amps * PF. This formula is correct. Here is another formula:
      Power Factor = KW / KVA
      Power Factor = Watts / VA (Volt-amperes)
      PF = 5,000 watts (5 KW) / 6,250 VA = 0.8 PF (80% power factor).
      PF = 5,000 watts / 5,555 VA (volt-amperes) = 0.9 PF (90% power factor).
      PF = 5,000 watts / 5,000 VA = 1 (Unity PF).
      Each of your calculations was correct. As PF is being improved, the watts stay the same.
      Utilities will make separate calculations totally independent from kilowatt-hours when they bill some commercial and industrial customers for poor PF.
      Let me say another thing about I2R losses. If adding capacitive reactance improves PF when capacitive reactance is needed to cancel the inductive reactance, would not adding capacitive reactance make the PF worse(a leading PF) when it is not needed? Some have said, “less amps will slow the utility meter.” If capacitors can slow the kWhr meter when caps are needed, it would also make it turn faster when caps are not needed! Try this – turn everything off at the main panel except the “power saving device.” Next, check the amps above the main breaker. How many amps do you read on the ammeter? I have checked this more than once. Are there any distributors or owners willing to post their results?

  2. Rick says:

    Power factor is a measurement in how efficient your system is operating. (pf =KW/KVA) A poor power factor will limit the amount of power the wire will conduct efficiently. Since in most cases the wire in most homes is over specified this is not a big factor. Remember that the electric company bills you in WATTS; let’s look at your figures. Watts = volts x amps x pf Your figures of VA = 6250 x .8 (pf) = 5000 watts. Now after improving power factor VA = 5555 x .9 (pf) = 4999.5 watts primarily no change at all where metered. The power you are buying from the electric company is measured in watts. I have never seen an electric company that bills consumption in amps. . What you have done is reduce the amps in the line. The saving comes in the distance from that point to the electric meter. The variances are what different components are in the unit installed. If your unit has a surge suppressor and you have a lot of refrigeration units you will benefit from that. If you system has a line noise filter and you have high harmonics you will benefit from the unit. I have installed over 300 + 3 phase 480 volt 20 to 30 KVAR units many in oil fields and when measured at the connect point (pump disconnect) the savings were undetectable, but measured at the transformer some times 400 feet away the saving were as high as 19%. Again, if you place the unit at the compressor and not at the circuit breaker panel, which is normally right next to the meter, you will get the greater savings.

  3. Tony Monaco says:

    I have watched these posts for months. And everyone is speculating Watts are how we are billed. If anyone has instaled one of these devices below you would know immediatly. These units below would tell you exactly at the moment by turning the Power saver on and off if there was any savings. I would love to hear from someone if they had installed one of these. Spend the extra $100 to be sure.

    Has anyone installed a Power Monitor like the TED 1001 or even Black and Decker has one that gives accurate KW usage moment by moment and also logs usage by day and month. ?


  4. Ken Lempit says:

    There are better ways to save electricity for a $300 investment. CFL light bulbs can reduce your lighting expense $20 or more per month, depending on your home. Mass merchants have great deals on CFLs – Costco often has them for $1 or $2 each.

    Insulation can reduce A/C and heating bills. My bro-in-law insulated his attic using blown-in cellulose as a DIY project for about $100 and is already in the black.

    Use common sense to save energy and money folks!

  5. Dan Scherer says:

    I installed my Power-save 1200 on May 15, 2008.
    2007 14,550 kWh rate $.1168
    2008 12,813 kWh rate $.1215
    2009 11,033 kWh rate $.1294
    2010 rate $.1302

    I installed a Noritz tankless June 2009 saving $80 per mo. Avg.

    Currently installing 4.2 dual axis Solar array net metered 20 year DTE REC contract @ $.11 kWh. 67% cost covered by DTE Solar Currents and Federal Tax Credit.

    Guy’s you can talk it or walk it.

  6. jwm561 says:

    I am an electrical contractor, i have never installed one of these devices and have asked friends and family for their advice just today about the ones they have had installed. no word as of yet but i will let you know when they respond. i have a BS in Physics and a MS in E.E. and technically this item should work. not quite sure of the actual % of savings, it seeems way too high to me. i am personally installing one within the next few weeks to see if there is a savings. as for all of those who say it doesn’t work i would like to hear a legit reason as for why, instead of speculation. capacitors have been around for ever, not for this purpose but, it should work in the same capacity.

    • Rick says:

      Since you have the background in EE, and will understand the concept, I will give you some information that I have found over the last 8 years I have been installing a capacitor based unit. I have installed commercial units in areas that have high power factor penalties. My main competition is from companies that sell power factor correction capacitor banks located right next to the electric companies meter on the load side. This does a good job of improving the power factor, but nothing more. I uses smaller units located as close to the load as practical. In one of my last installations I used 16 480 volt 20 and 30 Kvar units. The results are as follows: Power factor went from .88 to .95 that is a 2.06% improvement, Kva went from 147.2 to 142.9 that is a 2.92% drop, Kvar went from 33.6 to 28.1 that is a 16.52% drop, and the prime result true power kWh went from 142.9 to 134.6 that is a 6.25% drop in consumption. Now granted this is 480 volt 3 phase, but the principal is the same as in 120/240 volt single phase. Locating the unit at the circuit breaker box in residential units generally right next to the meter will give you minimal results; where placing the unit next to the main load(s) will give you better results. The more the inductive load the greater the savings. I have seen savings generally between 8 and 12%. On a bench test using a 1/4 hp motor and 239 feet of wire measured reduction in watts was 6%. The wire was used to demonstrate I squared R line losses. In the same test at 29 feet of wire the savings were only 1%. Try a test such as this yourself, because you will have a hard time isolating a circuit in a residential test. With the proper montitoring equipment you will see such results.

    • DicktheEngineer says:

      JWM – welcome to our friendly little chat!

      Since you are pretty new, and maybe you didn’t have time to read all the posts, allow me to cut to the chase…

      Correcting PF will reduce line current. YES!
      Correcting PF will thus reduce KVA (apparent power delivered by the utility). YES!
      Correcting PF will NOT reduce real power consumed by your appliances. NO!

      The utility bills you on “real power only” for residential customers. (the meter on your house costs about $25 for a mechanical/rotating disk meter.. about $100 for its solid state successor.)

      Industrial customers are billed for poor PF. Its is in the tariffs. Look them up online.

      Correcting PF will reduce the bill for Commercial/industrial users… because they have metering that measures KW/KWh KVAr/Kvarh KVA/KVAh and or PF directly. (these meters cost from $250 to $4000 depending on features).

      If you don’t change what the meter is designed to capture, you don’t change the bill.

  7. Dan Scherer says:

    Once you change all your incandecent lights over to CFL’s not much is left except inductive loads in your house. Unless your appliances are energy star rated (high efficency) then the cheapest way to raise your house efficency is to install a capacitor bank. This will hold your incoming power at 220 volts even if the incoming power is lower or higher. It also protects your house from power spikes. The Power-save is connected to a dual pole breaker and it balances power to both sides of your panel. When AC, pumps, freezers, dryers, hair dryers and other high amp loads start the capacitors discharge and keep your voltage from dipping. This all occurs in millisecond intervals. Look I’m not affiliated with them I’m just and end user. You will see an immediate improvement in power condition throughout your house. Your bills will drop the first month. You have nothing to lose as rates will continue to rise.

  8. rob says:

    This post seem to be everyday guys like me and engineers who work for the electric company. Whom i would never trust! I’ve been searching for a good review on these things and i found this forum.,16598530 The guys on there seem to be very smart and even though they admit in theory these shouldn’t work they are open to it and some tried them with positive results. The rest are actually trying to build their own now. After reading i purchased one on ebay. $135 and free shipping. I am anxious to try it out.

    • DicktheEngineer says:

      Damn Rob, you caught me.

      I am lying through my teeth about this device. It’s part of the great conspiracy to screw my fellow man out of huge $ savings. (Of course, I tell the truth to all my closest friends, and I have ten of these units on my own house already!)

      If you avoided buying one of these, please send an email to Bill Gates, he sends me $100 for every person I talk out of a purchase.

      BTW – is it just Engineers, or does your mistrust apply to other Licensed Professionals as well? I know I never take medical advice from anyone who went to Med School! And don’t even get me started on Dentists… Just because those clowns spend years studying teeth, they seem to think they know more about that subject than the general internet bloggers.

  9. Tony says:

    Who knows who is who. Half of these posts could be from Power-Save. We wanted to buy one unit at wholesale so we could photograph and test the unit to see if it would be a good fit for our customers thinking many of my customers are work from home online auction sellers and they might be interested but the company that sells the units laughed at me when I asked if i could purchase one unit at wholesale so I could photograph and inspect. Their answer:

    Your website has no value to us. Good luck.

    We pass on the Power-Save 1200

  10. Ken says:

    What is with all the debate? The “device” is simply power factor correction capacitor(s). If your power factor is less than unity AND if your power company charges for power factor under unity, then the “device” will save money. My power company does not charge residences any fee or rate for less the unity PF (power factor). Further, I have never heard of a power company in the USA that charges residences for PF of less than 1. Therefore, the “device” does not save you money, not even one red cent. Period.

  11. Rick says:

    The electric company does charge for watts or kWh. How do you determine KW or kWh? The equation is watts = Volts * Amps * power factor. Oh, maybe power factor does affect residential electric bills. Know your formulas before you make a determination. I have run bench tests that will show savings on 1/4 hp motor. It is evident that most people writing to this site do not understand I2R line loss.

  12. Ken says:

    Rick is correct that the power company charges for KW or KW times time for KWH. Imagine you have a motor that requires 600 watts to run it’s load. Let’s say 600W = 120Volts X 10Amps X .5PF. Now you install the “device” and it drops the current to 5A and raises the PF to 1 for example. Even though the current dropped in half, you still haven’t saved any money because the watts are the same.

    Rick, how did you run tests on the 1/4Hp motor? You probably have noted a drop in current because of the raise in PF. But only way to measure the billable watts is with a watt meter. Ebay has some nice clamp on ammeters that measure KW, KWH, PF, Reactive power, etc. for about $210. Mine came from China, model UT231, and arrived amazingly fast.

    I did a Youtube search on power factor and found a very good “college” lesson in some of the first hits. The guy is Indian so he’s a bit hard to understand, but it was well worth

    If the “device” lowered watts wouldn’t the power companies be pushing us to install them (building new plants is more expensive than trying to get us to conserve to make money selling us power with existing plants and transmission lines), or our government. Like digital converter box vouchers, they be bugging us to install one in every home. Wouldn’t someone like Square D offer them built into their breaker boxes so they could sell more breaker boxes than their competition?

    Take note that the Power Saver 1200 videos on youtube never show a watts, just current. If they save watts as claimed, why not quench the controversy by showing watts saved?

    I sell these “devices”. If I thought they would save money at my home I would install one. They do save money for my industrial customers whom are charged a poor power factor penalty.

    Sorry, but I stand on my statement that you won’t save even a penny unless you are charged a separate fee for improving poor power factor.

    Now “active” power factor “devices” (the above discussions are regarding “passive” power factor control) is another story for another day.

    • DicktheEngineer says:

      Ken – check out

      Improving PF on a residential load WILL eliminate the I2R losses from the meter to the appliance. ROUGHLY 4 CENTS PER YEAR! Your savings may be double that if your home is wired with #18 gauge lamp wire (at least till your house burns down 🙂

      You may now apologize to the folks who spent $100 or more for this modern day snake oil.

  13. Ken says:

    DicktheEngineer, thanks for the link.

    I have never sold a PFC to someone who isn’t charged a power factor penalty.

    I was wrong when I stated they won’t save one red cent. I2R losses saved annually are about a nickel as you mentioned.

  14. Roscoe Clark says:

    Roscoe here
    What a nice chat site. I read every one of these post. It looks to me that this product will not save enough, $.04 to $.10 per month typ to install one. It did look good at first, but one must be aware, if it sounds to good to be true it is not any good as said. They are good at marking it. Lets see what. As a Super Insulation builder. We have seen many products come and go. Yes we are building houses that use very litle energy and are safe to live in. $100.00 per year total heating cost in cold Michigan. R 40 walls R 60 Ceiling air tite construction and air to air fresh air system too. At this level it is very cost effected.
    6% higher cost to build that standards houses. If we test this product for fun, we will use the highest standards to do the test as we do in all of the test homes.
    Thanks for posting all of these nice posts.

    Roscoe Clark
    Flint Michigan
    Superinsulation Builder and Instructor
    Permanent Wood Foundation

  15. Dan Rider says:


    I bought a UT231, too. No only is the unit made in China, the English used in the manual was also made in China (“Chinglish”). I measured pf at the input to my breaker box and got -.95. Power Save told me that is not low enough to substantially benefit from their divice. But I measured someone else’s pf and recommended they try one out. Rather than a 60-day trial, I told him we could hook it up provisionally (not install it) and I would use my clamp meter to measure current (or KVA)before and after it is switched on. But now all this talk of reducing current but not power has me concerned.

    About the matter of PF increasing as amps decrease so watts remaining constant, please see Archangel’s entry on 01/25/2010. It seems to me that since residential meters do not measure power factor, they do not know what it is, so pf cannot be in the equation used by a residential watt meter in determining power over time. Therefore, what is left for the watt meter to measure is volts times amps. If volts are constant and amps through the meter decrease, the product of volts and amps should decrease. So if a person measures a decrease in amps going in to their breaker box from their meter, and thus a decrease in amps through their watt meter, should that mean that, from their watt meter’s point of view, less power is flowing through it?

    In other words, when current drops because PF increases, since a residential meter does not measure pf but just the result of it (decreased amps times the same voltage) as far as what a watt meter registers, how can the increased pf cancel out the decrease in current that it causes when the meter measures the effect of increased pf but not the pf itself?

    When it comes to reactive power flowing back to the power grid, with the exception of bi-directional meters for solar panels and wind turbines, I didn’t think that watt meters could measure any power flowing out to the grid. So if non-productive power flows back to the grid, is that not power that turned the meter forward on the way in but did not turn it back on the way out?

    I am not trying to make any point. I really need to know. In nature there are no numbers or formulae, just phenomena. Formulae are used for precision, but numbers and formula must be used in the context of the phenomena they express. At issue is the phenomenon of pf, not formulae. It is possible to misapply a formula if the phenomenon is lost sight of.

    Dan Rider

  16. Tony Monaco says:

    I still have not seen anyone here that has installed a TED 1000 or Black and Deckers unit to measure KWH at any given moment.

    Like the above posts say. Month to Month or even year to year doe not mean a thing. unless someone can compare KWH usage when the Power saver is on and off all this speculation is meaningless. Just proves to me that this thing does not work. If it really did save.. the greenies would be all over it.


  17. Fat Maggie says:

    I can only assume that all of the engineers and folks who work for energy companies posting on this site know their stuff. Their calculations and their hypothetical scenarios seem to be very studious and accurate.

    However, as a PS1200 customer, I know for a fact that it was money well spent in my household.

    I had been fighting with PSE&G in NJ for years in a few different properties, mainly for their poor customer service and ridiculous policies, but ultimately my bill.

    I currently reside in a 4 BR 2 bath home with myself, wife, and 4 boys aged 5-12. We have 2 PS3’s, two PC’s, wireless router, laptops, iPhones, 5 Nintendo DS, LCD TV’s, central air, dishwasher, above ground pool, jacuzzi, 2 washing machines, and 2 dryers. (Yes! 2 separate laundry facilities! We have 4 boys that all play on football, baseball, and basketball teams that I coach. I play too when my knees can handle it… HA!)

    A good friend of mine, actually my assistant baseball and basketball coach is an electrician. I metioned to him how I despise PSE&G looking for sympathy and hopefully an answer. Well… Lo and behold, he mentioned to me a product that he had heard of awhile back called Power Save 1200. I did a little research, yada yada yada. I bought the thing and he installed it for me.

    I figured, hey, for $300, as long as my bill doesn’t go up it’s worth a shot. He put it in July of 2009 about a day or 2 after I got my June bill. I had to do something. Anyone who owns a pool will tell ya, when you open that thing up and start running the central air plus the water bill spikes… Fuhggidabodit…

    Anyway… We saw a modest savings in our July bill that we received in August, but hey it was savings. Did it make up for the $300 I spent? No. But it was a start.

    Now, September comes. Back to school clothes. I had just spent a grand sending two of my kids to football camp in August. Work was slow. Here I am prepping for a $600 electric bill as we always see in September for all the parties we have that run til the crack of dawn in the yard all summer. Yep. $380. 3 freakin 80!

    I hadn’t seen an energy bill go under $400 in years! I’m tellin ya, last time it went under $400 I was single and working 80 hours a week in a 2 BR apartment just going home to sleep. We haven’t gone over $400 since. We run anywhere from $270 – $330.

    So, I dunno. KWH / KVH? Electro motor induction coils? Thermo noise shield units? Real power, wasted heat, silicone breast implants… ???? I don’t know and I don’t care.

    What I do know is United States Federal Reserve Notes and Legal Tender. And this thing saves me the dough. Nuff said.

    And I know, somebody is going to ask me how I found this forum. Why I am writing the note. Why I give a crap. The way I found this here rant was by looking power save 1200 up because I wanted to send them a thank you letter.

    I don’t sell them nor I do I care to. But, and Apple Computers and AT&T will back me up on this one. You do me right. I’ll do you right. I would recommend the Power Save 1200 to anyone. And while we’re at it, Apple and AT&T rock too!!! HA!

    See you in the looney bin! YYYEEEEEHHHHAWWWWW!!!!

  18. Jen says:

    We got ours free from my husband’s boss last year.( We no longer work for him) He wanted to see if it worked so he could install/sale them. It works for us. APS has raised their rates three times in two years. I am usually really careful and stick to our “time” plan, but I have not been as carefully as I was before we put it on. Our bills have been as low, if not lower, as they were before all the raises, but one month. That month we never turn on the heater or cooler (Nov)so there wouldn’t be much of a difference anyways. I hopw this helps.

  19. Steve says:

    I installed this last year and did notice a reduction in my bill. Connecting an amp meter at the feed, I calculated a reduction of 6.48% amp reduction with the Power Saver 1200 on vs. the off position. Based on my rate of .12/kwh and average usage, the unit pays back in just about a year, not including the energy tax credit. Considering the energy credit, the unit started saving me money upon installation. The 6.48% was not the 20+ percent savings advertised, but when i checked the difference in usage just on my a/c unit, the savings approached 22%, but remember what we really care about is the savings on our entire bill, not just a single system. I am sold on the technology.

  20. I am a journeyman electrician with 43 years of electrical work – plants,businesses, homes. My first reaction to the power save 1200 was BAH Humbug! But since I was retired and had the notion that I wanted to help people by selling and installing something in the Green movement, I investigated the product by installing one. I can honestly say the product works – I cannot argue with success. I have seen my power usage lowered (compared same month to same month with the previous years usage from my power company records.) Anyone who criticizes this product without trying it has no basis to judge. I put my money where my mouth is – let’s see you do the same! A satisfied Power Save 1200 user.

  21. double trouble says:

    I have been an electrician for 25 years. I installed a ps1200 1 month ago. I have not gotten my bill yet ,but I do suspect it works and here is why. Mine instantly slowed the meter down. My meter went from 310 watts per minute with the unit off to 270. Nobody was home except me, I repeated the test several times with the unit off and on. similar results. That should be an 8% savings. I will post when my bill comes.

  22. agmonaco says:

    Double Trouble… How did you measure the watt usage per minute?

  23. Paul says:

    Power factor correction has been around since shortly after commercial alternating current was developed. Big industrial consumers save tons by installing capacitors to correct the power factor back to 1. The trick is knowing how much capacitance to add to balance the inductance of the motors and other coils. Maybe the answer is to turn it off in the coldest months when resistance heat is the greatest load. Or maybe it should have winter/summer switch to switch out part of the capacitance when loads are more resistive.

    • Rick says:

      The easiest way to accomplish this is to locate properly sized units on the load itself. By measuring the KVAR you can determine the proper capacitors. By locating them on the load they are only operating when the load is engaged. Therefore you do not have to have different capacitor “BANKS” for different loads, or high cost capacitor banks that adjust to the size of the load. Capacitor banks benefit the electric company more than the consumer. By locating units closest to the load you also maximize the line loss savings.

    • Thorendan says:

      John and many others,
      With all due respect to all the math and studies and government websites and theories, my friend has been trying to get me to buy a PowerSave1200 for 2 years and I have been studying and just putting it off. BUT, here is the bottom line: My friend’s older, not very well insulated home has seen very significant reduction in overall kilowatt usage. The use of this unit in his 2000 sq.ft home has saved him around 8%, this is what I have been told. He is a retired Science Teacher and has done everything from machinist, to geologist, to assistant professor, to retiring as a public school teacher and has all but his dissertation toward having a doctorate. In other words, smart people can throw out all of the theories, if it works. The measure that counts is in the change in kilowatt usage. I know for a fact that money is not the issue with my friend, it is the miserliness of trying to see if he can squeeze a little more efficiency (it is a game for him) and he is a converted, true believer. Well, time for me to ‘gamble’ and buy this product. As many have said, if you do not see a result, return it or at least you have ‘stimulated’ someone’s economy by buying their product (tongue in cheek).

      Thanks to everyone for all the posting, good and bad. I learned a lot.

    • Thorendan says:

      Thank you for the website, but just a thought. How many times have scientists and analysts told us one thing one day and proved themselves wrong the next day. Again, I appreciate your information, but I have a friend who has benefitted from the savings (I left another post about him), so I am about to break down and buy it. If it does not work, well darn, I will not be able to buy that new office chair I wanted. LOL. God Bless

  24. Absolutely Thorendan. Concepts, ideas and theories are constantly changing. What was Ok yesterday is not OK today because …someone said so…and then its reversed again next year. If the product works for individuals then that is all they need. If it reduces their bills as it said it would then thats a good thing for the consumer and the environment. Anyway with a 60 day money back gaurantee thats all you need to know to give it a try. At the very least it is making people aware of energy consumption…and that alone is a good thing. I will leave all the calculations and debates to others while I reep the rewards from the results. Giving me more time to think about how I can change my energy saving behaviour as well.

Please Leave a Reply
Bargaineering Comment Policy

Previous Article: «
Next Article: »
Advertising Disclosure: Bargaineering may be compensated in exchange for featured placement of certain sponsored products and services, or your clicking on links posted on this website.
About | Contact Me | Privacy Policy/Your California Privacy Rights | Terms of Use | Press
Copyright © 2016 by All rights reserved.