Comments on: Power-Save 1200: Recapture Your Electricity Line Loss?

By: NH Sceptic

NH Sceptic — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 13:42:27 +0000

Chip2 – Thank you for the post on your usage.
That is what is really needed to tell if it works – compare each month with the exact same month 1 year ago. (And compare KWH not cost since rates change – and believe it or not some go down)

Your track record shows real savings on a constant basis.

Since along with all the regulars (washer – dryer – refridge…) We also have some others energy consumers here – 2 pond pumps (running 24hrs day 8 months) Large Jacuzzi – 3 pumps 12 months, 2 pellet stoves all winter, Household well pump, I can’t believe that it would take all that much time to save a few hundred dollars.

Again thanks

By: Russ Ledbetter

Russ Ledbetter — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 03:38:54 +0000

Robert,
Month number 4 and Kwh are still reduced from the month, – year prior. I have consistently saved money four months in a row.
There is a destinct difference in “disc” rotation (slower) with the power save on, vs. power save off.
Let me know what data you need to “belay” your fear and I will send it to you. Also if you want specifics I will also send these to you. While I’m not totally “sold” indications are still positive.
Regards
Russ

By: Don

Don — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 22:41:10 +0000

Dan Rider is absolutely right. And all the above talk is just that — talk. I have one of these and know that it works and why, and I work in heavy industry where we use the same techology ona larger scale for phase lag/phase angle correction all the time.

60-day money back guarantees are not offered by people trying to pull a fast one. This is a reputable company with easily testable technology. Are you so strapped for cash you can’t try one out yourself?

All this other theoretical crap and requests for further data are meaningless — YOU buy one and YOU play around with it. Why should we do your homework for you (Robert)? You’d just question the data, and blah blah blah some more.

So try one for yourself, or STFU, blowhards.

By: Dan Rider

Dan Rider — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 18:27:05 +0000

Don,

You wrote that “The U.S. Department of Energy has endorsed the technology, but not a single power company in the Southeast is willing to talk about the product.” Can tell me where I can find that endorsement? Thanks.

Dan Rider

By: Dan Rider

Dan Rider — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 13:05:24 +0000

Mechdad,

I contains just capacitors, no electronics. Theories as to why it works and why it cannot work are no substitute for trying one out for 60 days. It depends on the house. If if does not lower your bill, you get your money back. That’s the only way to know if it lower your electric bill. What it will do for certain is protect your whole house from surge and spike damage (2000 joules). That is because capacitors will do that–regardless of the house.

Dan Rider

By: Robert

Robert — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 04:00:33 +0000

Hello Mick,
Thanks for your post. I have a few questions.

1. How can you be sure that all of the reduction of your power bill (30%) is attributed to the “Power Saver”?

2. Have you read the ENERGY STAR web page TomShams on Friday 9/18/09 refers to? That web page says,

“We have not seen any data that proves these types of products for residential use accomplish what they claim. Power factor correction devices improve power quality but do not generally improve energy efficiency (meaning they won’t reduce your energy bill).”

That same web page also says,

“ENERGY STAR does not qualify any Power Factor Correction Devices. Please send us an email at logomisuse@energystar.gov if you see one that claims to be ENERGY STAR certified.”

Since many are still claiming as you are that they are saving energy with these devices, I would like to ask one more question:

3. Would you be willing to do some “before and after” tests with your power saver and post the results? So far, all who have tested as I requested and commented here on this web site have either found no change, or perhaps so little of a change that they are unwilling to share the results. I have tested this device myself, with no positive results. I am waiting for someone who is reporting savings to give this device what I call a “true test,” and then report the results here.
All I want is for someone to test and report as follows:

Speed in seconds for ? revolutions of electric meter disc WITHOUT power saver = ?
Speed in seconds for ? revolutions of electric meter disc WITH power saver = ?

Use a stopwatch if available, and let each test last for more than 60 seconds for accuracy. Please report what appliances were on during each test, and make sure nothing can turn off or on during the test. Please be aware that some appliances can change speeds or modes while in use. Also please report the kh rating posted on the front of the electric meter. A very popular number is 7.2.

I look forward to seeing your response. I too, as you have said, would be willing to correspond direct with anyone through e-mail.

Thanks,
Robert

By: mechdad

mechdad — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 03:57:50 +0000

i saw where someone asked what components are in the ps1200 unit but ever saw an answer from what saw it appears that it might work

By: mick

mick — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 00:11:22 +0000

Hi I am Mick in Ohio, I installed the power save 1200 in my home (all electric)and saved 30 percent the first month. I tested this in my own home because I am a home builder and wanted to see if it works, if so, I would put in my new builds to meet and exceed the energy star requirements. Take my word it works.
The power save tend to do a better job in older homes (like mine) that do not have energy star appliances, furnaces, a/c units ect. Many energy star products already have built in devices to do the same as power save. Therefore some people will not realize the same results. also electric company due use capacitors to save electric, you see them but you just don’t know what they are. Electric companies also have tried to sell to the public but theirs is installed outside and benefits them, not the customer. Power to the house only goes one way thru the meter (unless you have a special meter installed), this keeps the electric company from electrocution when power goes out from people running small generators.
If you really want more facts go to the power save site, they have plenty of testimonials, fact sheets, government testing on power factor ect.
this product has worked in every home I have installed them in including all my families homes and everyone has save, all different but all saved with the lowest being a 18 month payoff for the product. It’s a win win either way, I have check the notify box to any comments and would be willing to talk direct, just leave e-mail in posting.

By: Dan Rider

Dan Rider — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 18:42:43 +0000

Mike Landon,

Thank your for your question several weeks ago. I am sorry I am taking so long but, rather than shoot from the hip, I am being careful to research this one. I still need to get some rabbits down a hole before I answer your question so will be a while longer. At this point, though, I need to know if the $99 special plugs into a 110 VAC outlet or goes across 220 VAC at the breaker box.

On this blog there are atleast two entries that have no ‘reply’ button at the end. Your last comment is one such, so am writing at the very bottom of the blog. I hope that gets fixed by the time I am ready to post an answer.

Dan Rider

By: Sean

Sean — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 17:10:12 +0000

Your argument is fallacious, you don’t actually look at the device or how it works. I am trying to be skeptical, and maybe save my father the trouble of buying one. Can someone who has posted on the theory of how it can’t work actually look at one?

By: rich

rich — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 09:05:08 +0000

Why do so many people comment about what they have no idea about. It only shows their ignorance. Our power company had to give us a $300 credit for the year because we came way under our balanced billing usage for previous years. The world is full of ignorant people who are nay sayers, even when they have absolutely no experience. Nay sayers probably never accomplish much because they are never willing to try anything. Thomas Edison, Albert Einstein, Wright Brothers, etc. name them- not one of them was a nay sayer like you are.

By: Mike Landon

Mike Landon — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 05:34:12 +0000

Dan, thanks for your help. They sell what looks to be a knock-off (I didn’t see any U.L. label)of the ‘1200 unit with “about” the same name on e-bay for ~ $99.00 (in a plactic electrical box). I went to the web site of KVAS (they use a metal electrical box) and they show the internal parts in one of their videos. There are 2 what look like Air Conditioner Unit Cap’s, attachment wires, and a light on the case to show that power is on. Pretty good profit at $299. They claim to price match but did not match the $99 units. A friend had one put in his home (I told him when he bought them I didn’t know the science in the box and didn’t know if they would work) last year and let me know this week that they didn’t work for him. I run a swimming pool motor 6-8 hours a day and thought they might help if that is what they are puttings (Cap’s) inside energy star devices.

By: Dan Rider

Dan Rider — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 15:32:40 +0000

Mike,

I have not seen the video but have the printed installation instructions. If you go to Power-Save.com, click on ‘PS1200′ and on the PS1200 page, click on ‘PS1200 install instructions’ you will get a pdf file. I will quote the relevant part here:

“3.Install a two pole 20 amp 220 volt breaker and secure the two red leads (wires) of the PU-1200, one on each side of the breaker. Secure the green wire from the PU-1200 to the ground bar in the panel. Leave breaker in “OFF” position until power is restored to panel.”

(The device used to be called ‘PU1200′, but this is the same criter. I wouldn’t want to call anything ‘PU’.) As you can see, the device has three leads: by connecting ‘one on each side’ of a 220V breaker, two leads straddle 220V and, in connecting to both sides of the 220V service, connect to one side of each 110V leg. The third lead connects to the middle (ground), thus connecting to the other side of both legs. So one unit takes care of both 110V legs as well as the 220V circuit. I hope this helps.

By: Mike Landon

Mike Landon — Tue, 06 Oct 2009 19:12:20 +0000

Dan, I have been looking at this device (PS-1200). The videos I have seen show it hooked to only one side / leg of your electrical supply. Would you not have to have 2 units (one for each leg) since the load at the breaker box is balanced between the 2 sides?

By: Bill

Bill — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 01:52:47 +0000

I was at a trade show today where they had one of these gadgets with a bunch of metering. I am an electrical engineer and understand power. Their demo was a motor with a capacitor (Their energy saving device) that could be connected or disconnected. They used this to show how the amps dropped in half when the capacitor was connected. I was able to take control of their measuring equipment for a short period of time. One of the meters was capable of measuring watts, so I connected it and measured 112 watts with the capacitor disconnected and 111 watts when the capacitor was connected. The amps were around 5.5 with the capacitor disconnected and about 2.8 with the capacitor connected. Electrical theory says that these devices do not work. My measurements with a watt meter confirmed what I thought.