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$10 Amazon Prime Promotion

Amazon is running an Amazon Prime promotion where they will give you a one month free trial of Amazon Prime and a $10 credit towards products sold by Amazon.com. This offer is for new Amazon Prime members only and expires July 28th.

Amazon Prime is their fast shipping program that offers free two-day shipping on any order and $3.99 expedited next-day shipping. The program normally costs $79 a year.

It’s likely that signing up will have you automatically renewing. To change that setting, read these instructions from the last Amazon Prime promotion.

Continue to Free Trial Signup

Best Site To Sell Your Stuff

Shipping Stuff AwayRecently I’ve been doing some cleaning around the house and thinking about how to unload some of the stuff we’ve acquired over the years. I have a ton of junk that’s just taking up space in closets, on bookshelves, in basement rooms, etc. Fortunately, with the power of the Internets, it’s actually quite easy to sell the stuff you don’t need. Here are my favorites:

Textbooks

Everyone knows the school store is the worst place to sell a textbook but there are easier and better alternatives. First, I’d check the bulletin boards of your school, both online and offline. By selling it through the bulletin boards you save on shipping and selling fees. My online favorites are Amazon.com and half.com because you can list in minutes once you setup a Marketplace account. Then, you can enter the ISBN number (the numbers underneath the bar code), product quality, sale price and Amazon will set up the rest for you. For the convenience you do pay a price, Amazon.com takes a 15% commission on the sale price, so try offline first.

“Commodity” Goods

I’ve always said that eBay is the prime place for anything that can be considered a commodity. A commodity is a DVD, watches, a car part, or any number of items in which one of them is is essentially interchangeable with another. What you get with one particular I Am Legend DVD is going to essentially be the same as any other, minus different scratches and the like. For items like that, eBay is king. eBay is king because they have useful tools to help in the listing process of commodity goods and because you get access to a huge buying community. Commodity goods also ship well, which means that geography isn’t a liability as it is with furniture.

Clothes

Used clothes are always difficult to sell but if it’s a particularly unique piece then you can always try local consignment shops. If it’s a suit, consider snapping a few photos, getting the dimensions, and listing it on eBay. In college my friend used to buy suits from Goodwills in affluent neighborhoods and sell them on eBay for a tidy profit, so it’s certainly possible. In general though you’ll probably get a better return donating them and taking the tax deduction.

Furniture & Other Large Items

Craigslist baby. Furniture (and other large items) is often big, difficult to ship and transport, so you’ll want to keep the buyer in the same geographic area. eBay isn’t a good option since shipping will make something too expensive. You can often find a major city Craigslist site near you but expect a lot of false positives. I recently gave away a dishwasher and had many false positives (and it was for free!). If you do have a weaker piece of furniture or a larger item that you don’t think you can sell and you don’t think Goodwill/Salvation Army will accept as a donation, giving it away on Craigslist is a good alternative to the dump or recycling facility. (large items can include basically anything heavy like tools, appliances, etc.)

There you go, four major clutter categories and the places you can unload the loot you’ve acquired all those years.

(Photo by seandreilinger)

My Microsoft Points Buying Strategy

I’ve owned an XBox 360 for nearly a year and I’ve never once purchased anything in the XBox Live Marketplace because there was never anything I really wanted - until I bought Rock Band. With the music games like Rock Band and Guitar Hero, the producers are releasing new songs via the XBox Live Marketplace and, if my memory serves me right, Rock Band songs cost 160 Microsoft Points a piece (they also bundle them in packs of 3 for 440 MS Points).

The math on how much a Microsoft Point is worth in the retail market works out to be 1.25 cents per point in the US, with prices slightly higher abroad (not on purpose there, it’s just exchange rates). You can get them slightly cheaper elsewhere and so you never want to pay retail price for points. There is always a cheaper alternative, unless you absolutely have to have points right now.

My goal is to pay, at most, a penny per point, and often times you can get them for even less if you’re willing to look.

Amazon.com

Amazon sells two point valued cards, a 1600 and a 4000 point card. The 1600 Microsoft Points Card is currently going for $18.99, making it 1.1869 cents/point, and the 4000 Microsoft Points Card is going for $47.99, making it 1.1998 cents/point. Yes, right now the 1600 point card is better than the 4000 point card (go figure). However, with a penny per point being our benchmark, Amazon.com doesn’t cut it in this case. Also, Amazon.com has to mail you the card so there’s a shipping delay between when you buy and when you can use the points. The card itself is meaningless, all you need is the code on the back… therein lies options #2.

eBay

I love eBay for these types of commodity goods and eBay has a ton of listings of Microsoft Points. You have your typical 1600 pointers for $17.99, 1.124 cents/point, and the 4000 price varies in the high $40 range, which puts it in line with Amazon.com prices. However, if you’re willing to do a little extra work, look for the 200 point cards that come bundled with some random game. Specifically, look the for the 200 pointer bundled with Robotron 2084 and you’ll see a whole bunch of them for 99 cents - that’s a whopping half cent per point (plus Robotron 2084). The downside is that you have to enter all those codes, not a big deal if you have a keyboard but infuriating if you’re typing them in by hand (plus the downside of buying from a stranger on eBay, so do your due diligence). The upside is that the seller will often email you the code and you can get it immediately.

Stores (with Coupons)

Lastly, your final option is to go to a store like Best Buy, Circuit City, etc. armed with a coupon that lets you take dollars off your purchase. If you happen to be buying something else, throwing on some Microsoft Points at retail value so you are eligible to use a coupon might be a good idea. Short of that, going to a retail store without a coupon is the absolute worst thing you can do because you pay for gas, pay for tax, and you pay full price. Yuck.

There you have it, my brief guide on where to get the best prices on points. I’m not a seasoned point buyer so if anyone else has some good tips, please let me know so I can feed my Rock Band addiction on the cheap! Thanks!

Coinstar Promo: $10 Amazon GC with $30 Count

Coinstar is a coin counting vending machine that usually takes a nice fat cut of the count but from 01 October until 04 November, when you count over $30 in coins and convert it into an Amazon gift certificate they will send you an additional $10 Amazon gift certificate via email.

You will need to keep the receipt of the count and mail it by 08 November to:

Coinstar GC Offer
PO Box 91258
Bellevue, WA 98009

If you don’t provide an email, the certificate will be sent via postal mail but I recommend providing an email because electronic is better (less opportunity for it to be lost). Also, if you aren’t sure if you have $30 in coins, head over to a bank and ask for thirty bucks in quarters or something.

I’ll probably be doing this sometime later tonight or tomorrow as I’ve been itching to trade in some coins so I can report back on what the form asks for. Incidentally, if you want to avoid the Coinstar fee you can always take it to a Chevy Chase bank to convert them for free (other banks offer this as well).

Get An Amazon Prime 3 Month Trial Free

Amazon is running a $10 Amazon.com Prime promotion until the end of July.

The Amazon Prime Free Trial offer is back but this time it’s only 3 months. Amazon Prime is a program where you can get free shipping regardless of your purchase amount (if the products are eligible, most are) and discounted expedited shipping. A year’s membership costs $79. I reviewed Amazon Prime in terms of cost effectiveness a little while back before they started offering free trials.

Instructions:

  1. Log into your account.
  2. View your account information.
  3. Under the heading Subscriptions Management, click on Manage your Amazon Prime membership.
  4. You will be prompted to log in again.
  5. You should then see “You are not currently subscribed to Amazon Prime. Click here to sign up.” Click on ‘here.’
  6. You will now be offered a 3 month trial membership to Amazon Prime.
  7. You will be prompted for payment information.
  8. You will see “Thank you for joining. You’re now a member of Amazon Primeā„¢ Free Trial!” Click on the link to manage your Amazon Prime account preferences.
  9. In bright green, you should see “Your trial membership will upgrade to a full membership for $79 automatically on [date]” and a button with “Do not upgrade.” Click that button.
  10. The bright green text should now say “Your trial membership will not upgrade to a full membership automatically on August 19, 2006.

You now have Amazon Prime for 3 months, absolutely free, and you don’t even have to worry about remembering to cancel it. You will receive two email messages letting you know when your membership is about the expire, you can ignore those.

Selling Textbooks - Amazon vs. Half.com vs. Ebay

Some Random BooksThe Fall semester at Johns Hopkins’ MBA program just ended today and I’m going through the usual end-of-the-semester ritual of selling my gently used textbooks for dimes and quarters on the dollar. I never really sat down and investigated which service would give me the most bang for my buck until now and I still think I am making the right choices. While I was pretty sure what their commissions were and how each service operated, having sold items on Amazon, Ebay and Half.com before; I never looked in close detail at the numbers.

(read full article…)

Amazon Prime: New Shipping Program

Amazon has setup an interesting new program called Amazon Prime: “All You Can Eat” Express Shipping. Basically you pay $79 per year and you get free two-day shipping on “over a million in-stock items” and overnight shipping for $3.99 an item if ordered before 6:30 PM Eastern. The only other noteworthy item is that you can add four additional members as long as it ships to the same address. There are also some restrictions regarding where you are shipping to (PO Boxes, APO/FPO addresses, etc).

Is this really worth it? I have purchased hundreds of items from Amazon and was always able to use the “FREE Super Saver Shipping (5-9 business days)” as long as it wasn’t a third party item. My initial belief is that if you want to instant gratification of receiving an item in two days (or one day) this may be a good program to join. If you aren’t as picky or in a rush most of the time, free shipping probably is good enough.

Let us analyze:
Book: Tournament Poker for Advanced Players (Advance Player) by David Sklansky ($19.77). It’s a 245 page book that weights 14.4 oz.
FREE Super Saver Shipping (5-9 days) - N/A (under $25)
Standard Shipping (3-5 days) - $3.99
Two-Day Shipping (2 days) - $9.48
One-Day Shipping (1 day) - $16.48

Well… we picked a standard book that was eligible for the free service (if we ordered more) and the two day shipping was almost ten bucks and the one day was nearly $17 dollars!

Electronics: SANDISK SDMSPD512768 512MB Memory Stick Pro Duo Card ($62.99). They pegged this card at a pound but it’s probably a fraction of that.
FREE Super Saver Shipping (5-9 days) - FREE
Standard Shipping (3-5 days) - $5.58
Two-Day Shipping (2 days) - $10.48
One-Day Shipping (1 day) - $17.48

Hrm… we can get it shipped to use in a week-plus or we can pay to get it ASAP.

Kitchenware: Circulon Classic 14-Piece Cookware Set ($199.99). This beast weights 31 lb. and needs to be shipped by itself but still qualifies for free shipping.
FREE Super Saver Shipping (5-9 days) - FREE
Standard Shipping (3-5 days) - $23.28
Two-Day Shipping (2 days) - $39.68
One-Day Shipping (1 day) - $76.68

Wow, 31 lb. sure is expensive to ship. I think we’re getting the idea here thought….

Amazon is probably tired of the free shipping number on their balance sheets getting larger and larger (according to this Reuters article [article archived] they lost $197M in 2004) and perhaps they’re trying to get some payment? Wrong. They believe this plan will cost them even more in shipping losses (free shipping, still free, pay shipping now makes 2 day free and even faster shipping cheaper) but Amazon is in the business of capturing market share, not showing profitability.

What does this mean for you? My initial thoughts were proved correct: Semi-instant gratification (2 days) or really-close-to-instant gratification (next day) has been made cheaper by quite a bit, especially for high volume consumers. The rest of us who aren’t in a hurry simply won’t benefit from the new plan, but we probably knew that before we started.

For more info, you can check out the Amazon Prime FAQ for all the other specifics we glossed over.

How to Save Electricity (And Your Wallet)

Whether you’re Earth-conscious/friendly or just looking to save a few bucks, energy conservation makes good financial sense regardless of your intentions. There are several sites online that give you a rough estimate of how much money you’ll save on your bill if you take a few simple steps to conserve wattage.

First things first, large appliances and large fixtures eat up the most electricity. Basically these are you’re heavy hitters: Air Conditioning, Washer/Dryer, Lights, and Refrigerator/Freezer.

Air Conditioning: Consider using a fan or installing ceiling fans instead of using the Air Conditioning. Or consider setting the air conditioning at a higher level and using fans in conjunction. You can expect savings of over 6000 kWh/year simply by using a ceiling fan instead of running the AC. Look at your electric bill, see how much that would save you, and then decide if you want to install some fans. It is estimated that, for cooling, every degree below 78 increases your usage by about 6-8%.

Consider getting a timer, so you don’t cool when you’re not around (it’s a waste!). Timers are cheap and many have reaped the dividends many times over. Also consider replacing your old system with a new one. It is believed that a system made before 1988 probably uses more than twice the energy as one made today.

Another note about fans, they don’t cool the air, they simply move it. As you stay stationary, your body warms the air around you and so you’ll feel warmer. The fan will simply push that air away so you can feel cooler air around you. What that also means is leaving a fan on in a room you’re not in is a waste.

Washer/Dryer: This is where you can save a few dollars without even noticing (unlike the niceties of AC, how you wash/dry clothes probably doesn’t matter as much). If you just air-dry your clothes on a rack instead of using the dryer, you can expect to save about 1500 kWh/yr. You might notice that change because fabric softener sure is nice… but use cold water instead of hot water to wash and you can save 1200 kWh/yr. If you use warm instead of hot, you can still save 600 kWh/yr. And these aren’t difficult changes to enact, you won’t even notice you’re using cold water.

Lights: Here is where there’s a lot of debate between using regular incandescent bulbs and compact fluorescent bulbs. Fluorescents use significantly less electricity but take longer to warm up and produce a nice “clean” light.

Refrigerator/Freezer: This is simply a matter of figuring out how much energy your current refrigerator is using and how much the newer models are using. A new fridge will probably run you around $500 and will last you maybe twenty years or so. A typical fridge from ten or fifteen years ago probably eats up about 900 kWh/yr so do your math and see if it makes sense. As for standalone freezers, if you can save money by buying in bulk from Costco then you may justify using that freezer. Most are energy guzzlers and if you don’t need it, get rid of it.

Next we will look at the smaller appliances and some appliances you didn’t think used that much power. Almost everything that draws juice will have a label on it that will tell you how many watts it runs on. If it only has amp(ere)s, then multiply by 120 because our outlets are 120 volts (amps * volts = watts) to find out the watts it’ll use.

Key Points:
1. That number is the maximum it’ll draw, the average draw may be lower. Plus it won’t tell you how much it’s really drawing but it will tell you the max it will draw in a month. It’s not an exact science.
2. Advertisements are usually for output, like your speakers are a certain wattage, etc. The draw is probably higher.
3. When off, some things still draw power, even if nothing is being displayed. You obviously expect anything with a display to draw power but even that receiver, when off, still draws power because there is a transformer inside.

GeneratorSales.com has a great list of how much each appliance will draw. It’s obviously just a sample because it’ll vary from brand to brand and from model to model. It’ll give you a good starting point.

There are several ways to check how much things are really using, the easiest is to use something like the P3 International Kill-a-Watt Electricity Usage Monitor. You can use it to see how much energy appliances are using and, if you don’t need it, unplug it. It’s a nifty little tool at a reasonable price. Another great way is to just go outside and look at your meter. The numbers will go up and the dials will turn, it’s a great way to see how much your home uses as a baseline.

I hope these little tips, most of them won’t impact your quality of life or require significant costs, are helpful in getting your energy costs in check. If nothing else, hopefully they’ve given you a few ideas you can build upon for even more savings.

Lifespan of a Cell Phone Relationship

After a weeklong hiatus, Bargaineering is back on track and ready to bring you some hearty information on cell phones. Everyone has a cell phone now and the thought of instant contact at anytime is too powerful to dismiss. On the flip side, cell phones are like a life preserver, safety is a mere phone call away in most situations. That being the case, cell phone companies are fighting each other like crazy to steal customers and keep the customers they have. We will explain how to get the best for your buck before, during, and after you sign the contract.

Lifespan of a Cell Phone Relationship: Understanding where you are in the lifespan will dictate what you can demand and successfully receive.

  • Phase 1:Pre-purchase - This is for when you’ve decided to get yourself a new cell phone and are shopping around for the best deal. You hold probably the second most amount of power of the three phases here.
  • Phase 2: In Contract - This is after you’ve decided with a contract and have begun using service. You hold very little power here because the company knows if you cancel you will get socked with a $150 - $200 “early termination fee.”
  • Phase 3: Post-Contract - So you’ve run the life of your contract and you now want new service. You hold more power in this phase than in any phase ever with your current service. There is an old adage in business that states acquiring new customers can cost five times more than retaining current customers. If you decide you want out with the current services regardless, then you go back to Phase 1 (minus the option of going with the service provider you have now).

    Now let’s play the game…

    Phase 1: There are typically three criteria you look for when you’re shopping around for a phone: a cool phone so you can show off to your friends, great coverage so you aren’t frustrated by drops, and price. The matter of finding a cool phone or discussing coverage areas is way too complex to get into for now so we’ll just get into price — bottom dollar. Keep this hard fast rule in mind — Never pay for a cell phone. It is accepted practice that cell phones are loss leaders and the service is what earns the big bucks. Take a look at Amazon.com’s Cell Phone and Services section and start scrolling through the phones. Over half of them pay you money to sign up, that’s how lucrative cell phones are these days (all free or “pay you” phones will require a contract). The benefit of an Amazon is that you can compare multiple offers are once, something you can’t do if you go to a T-Mobile or Spring store in the mall.

    Before you fall in love with a phone or a service, keep this next table in mind:

    Service Min. Contract Period
    AT&T Wireless* 2 years
    Cingular* 1 year
    Nextel 1 year
    Sprint 2 years
    T-Mobile 1 year

    *AT&T Wireless and Cingular are now one service (Cingular acquired AT&T Wireless) - but Cingular rebates still say 1 year minimum!

    If you sign a two year agreement, you lose power during those two years so avoid it if you can.

    Phase 2: The worst phase but you can still get something out of it if you try really hard. Early on in a two year agreement, there is still the threat of cancellation if they believe you think the service could possibly warrant it. I was once put hold for about an hour and transferred three times for a mistake they made in my bill. I was angry and eventually transferred to a mediator who offered a $25 courtesy credit for my trouble. Sprint has their automated customer service that if you say “dropped call credit” then they’ll credit you something like a quarter (you can do it a limited number of times a month). Just call a bunch of times when you’re bored and it’s like an instant discount. Always ask, always complain, you might get a little something in return, there’s no pain in trying.

    Phase 3: The best phase… going month to month gives you the most flexibility because they want to keep you. They’ll offer you free phones and better rates just to keep you but with the advent of number portability - there’s almost no point in staying because of the “pay you” phones available on Amazon. But if you do stick around for a few months, try complaining and asking for credit, they’ll give it to you more readily than in Phase 2. Don’t abuse it because they’ll see the pattern and get wise to what you’re doing.

    Phase 3 -> Phase 1: If you decide to go with a “pay you” phone, you can’t go with the service you have. New service activation means you can’t have had service with that company in the last three or six months (depends on the company). But you can have someone else sign up for you if you want to avoid it… and then have it transfered to you. To transfer just go to a store (they need to see you) and ask to switch it over.

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